Alcyon II + TRF417 = ?

I had some problem with my front ball diff performing inconsistently this past month causing my rear end to swing upon corner entry. Rather than change the diff balls to new ones with new rings i decided to try the new school route--gear diffs. I did a lot of research and found the only car with a 36T gear diff is the Schumacher Mi4 and the Ta06. However the Mi4 diff bearing spacing is too narrow and will cause other problems. After a lot of fact finding and study i found that the TRF417 37T gear diffs can fit into the kawada bulkheads without any problems.
However becuase th pulley is 37T opposed to original 36T, the belts are now too tight. So for the rear i had to add a tooth longer. Rear belt is now S3M 174 and front belt S3M 519.
With this mod, i still use the 16T top pulleys, and the ratio is now 37/16 = 2.3125 as opposed to the original 36/16=2.25. Also, becuase the TRF417 gear diffs have very long outdrives, you have to change the dog bones from 46mm to 44mm, and use the blades that are given with the gear diff.
In the future i plan to change the top pulley to 17T. As for now the belts are a little loose but with the tensioner adusted all the slack in the belt has been taken up-mostly. Cant wait to test the car tommorow. I have placed #200,000 oil in the front diff and stuck with #900 in the rear. I feel that the #200,000 is too hard for the Kawada it feels almost like a spool. With the SV-10s good balance a #100,000 should be enough. Latest Update, i found that the #200000 oil sags rather soon, so the diff will feel softer after a while. i Changed to #300000, and the performance is much moire long lasting and consistent.

The TRF417 Gear diff at the rear. Cool Eh..white diffs 1

The front diff inside the bulkhead

New Front belt, added one tooth to the original, now its S3M 519 173T.

New Rear Belt added 1 tooth, is now S3M 174 58T, belt must be tensioned.

Rear View of the Diff, notice the new outdrive and blades, coupled to 44mm dog bones.
True TRF parts mated to the SV-10 II.

                     Well tested the car friday night, and i am glad to report it was awesome !!!
It handled like a dream and seems the #200,000 oil for the front diff was spot on. The first run i had some problems with the car feeling sluggish, i found out that the oil from the rear diff leaked out in between the diff housing, spraying #900 oil on the rear belts and all around the rear diff area. So i removed the diff and cleaned all the belts and the contaminated areas. I then refilled the diff with less oil and tighthened it up really tight. After that the car ran great without sluggishness. My SV-10 actually had more steering than before, and seem to go into corners a bit better. It also changed direction quicker but also more consistently and with a lot of traction, even with my sorex 40R's nearing tear point at the front ! Looks like the gear diff was a good choice. I will be sticking with them. Acceleration was also quick off the mark. Mid corner steering was especially good.
I gave my pal Ong to try out my car and he was amazed how locked on it felt, it was precise. He then decided he wasnt gonna use one ways at the front anymore and go for a ball diff and is now also buying a gear diff for his HB Cyclone.
Here is a tip to prevent leaking on your rear gear diff. Put a little amount of clear silicon sealant on the area where the o ring will sit on, press the o ring in. Wipe off excess silicone, and ensure there are none in the area where the o ring touches the outdrive. Let it cure for 24 hours, then build your diff. Put green slime on the area where the outdrive contacts the o ring. Dont push the outdrive in too hard or it may disclodge the o ring, if you have to use a small end of a box wrench to press against the o ring then push the outdrive in. When you spin the outdrive, the o ring should not turn. Then only will your diff be leakproof, even with #900 oil.
I wanted to stick the new TRF stickers i got from the gear diffs so i bought a new body cause my old one had a cracked wing and crack front wheel arch.

Look its a TRF sticker at the side ,its from the gear diff label which i cut off.

Front view

Close up of the TRF sticker at the front, its a 414 M2 !

What the competition will always see..

LiPo Fire in the SV-10

Last friday night..no not that katy perry song..i had a session with ONg and his HB cyclone, plus a few other yokomo BD-5 and X Ray T3.. The Kawada was running well. Unforturnately Ong's LRP Pulsar charger gave way that night. So i had to charge my batteries at higher rate to charge them quicker and then i can charge Ongs Batteries. So i charge my 4000mah shorty packs at 8A instead of 4. What was supposed to be the second last pack became the last one. On the first lap, Ongs car didnt have traction and slid and his front end hit my car hard at the side..right at the battery. There wasnt any apparent damage and we continued for a few more laps. Suddenly at one corner there were sparks from under my car, and the car kind of skidded, like some screws came off the chassis. So i stopped the car, about a second or two later, to my horror, there was heavy smoke coming from within the body shell. I quickly ran down the drivers stand to my car. The initial thought that entered my mind was a toasted motor or ESC. I quickly removed the body and saw the cause, the lipo had puffed and the chemicals in it was ignited somehow, the fire was not very big but the smoke was unbeleivable. There was nothing much i could do, and Ong brought a screwdriver to me, i proceed to push the battery out of the car with the screwdriver and then Ong took the still burning battery and therw it out of the track. The smell was horrible. The next morning i did a post mortem on the car and removed all the electronics. The fan was a goner, but everything else worked. Luckily. Also the transponder wires burned off, but by adding new connectors, it now works again. i Also cleaned off the melted residue of the lipo from the chassis, but not all of it can come off.

Burn residue on the transponder and chassis.

The fan is melted.

I still dont what is the cause, but i beleive it was the combination of charging at 2C and the hard hit on the battery. I think it should not happen again..hopefully.

Taken for a RIDE --twice !

In 2001, Thomas Tan told me to try RIDE tyres for touring. Suffice to say it did not grip well at all. Fast forward 2012. The new RIDE re36 compound tyres are out and met a few drivers/ racers who swear by them. The new tyres are also cheaper than sorex. So i tried a set, and glued them to HUDY rims with RIDE yellow inserts. The tyres do look kinda odd in that they are thicker than sorex. I was kind of in doubt if they could grip. They also lack the shiny sticky look on them. They are also 2.5g heavier than sorex tyres.
I tried them on Kota Raja track ,and my friend Ong with his HB cyclone was using new Sorex 36r. The first run the tyres felt kinda ok. But i cant quite place like wrong with it. Firstly i couldnt catch up to Ongs car at ALL. Even though i had boost and turbo i was left far behind. Also the car seemed easier to flip in the corners. After a few minutes , every time i jab the gas coming out from a slow corner, the car's rear end spun out. It never went exactly where i wanted it to go. I thought maybe my mazda 6 body was too low so i raised it for the 2nd pack. It was the same thing again. So Ong borrowed me his tyres and he used my RIDEs. The results were stunning, now he couldnt catch up to my Kawada at ALL. he was left far behind. With the SOREX i was able to put the power down 100%. Every slow corner i punched on the gas the car shot off where i wanted it to go. No more RIDE tyres for me. Being taken for a RIDE twice is enough.
Here are some pics before i tumbled the car with the new RIDE tyres.

Running at 1400gms - Shorty Packs !

I finally got to test the shorty packs yesterday. Went up against my friends 2006 HB cyclone, who also had a 4000mah ORCA pack that was 3 years old. He had some turbo on his ORCA Vritra ESC, and my VX had zero timing. But it was obvious my new batteries gave me an advantage over him as my top speed was faster than his. However the car was twitchy , and tended to slide the rear end around if i braked hard or let go of the throttle. The funny thing is the kawada seems to be faster this way, by drifting a little bit in the turns, i was able to outcorner my pals Cyclone. However it was rather risky to drive and i would think it would be very difficult to drive when the wather is very hot. So after the pack is finished, i checked the car and found the front diff a little too smooth, the tightness seem to be same as the rear diffs. I was thinking like "shit i drove 45 km from Kuala Lumpur to klang and now i have to change springgs and setup again". I thought perhaps the springs i used were too soft and i over compensated. I decided to tighten the front diff much more, and tested with another shorty pack. The car now is on rails. Phew, no need to change springs. It felt completely locked on but i did lose a bit of steering, but its ok becuase i can place it very precisely. I was still easily hounding my pals Cyclone. I can see why the car is so good now.
1. The car now weighs 100g less than its previous 1500g weight. So now it changes directions quicker, accelerates quicker and has more top speed and uses less batteries. All thanks to the shorty packs !
I do not feel a accelration lag like before, and its up to par and even able to out accelrate my pals Cyclone !
2. The ORCA VX ESC is really better too, i guess it must given me a bit more speed. it certainly felt better than my Speed Passion GT1.1 ESC.

Afetr about 6 packs, i borrowed 1 of my new shorty packs to my friend, and he placed it in his cyclone. We ran with the same batteries, and this time he had a noticably higher top speed than my Kawada, becuase his ESC had a little turbo. However, in the corners, my  Alcyon still cornered better and i was always able to hit the Cyclone in the corners, and if the oppurtunity arises, over take it, only in the corners though. If i had my ORCA program card, and could on the turbo, then i would be able to over take the cyclone everywhere.
The shorty packs do dump earlier, but since racing is only for 5 mins, they definitely are able to power the car beyond that time limit at high speeds. So i will be sticking with shorty packs from now onwards !

Overall view of SV-10 Alcyon II Ultimate

See how narow the shorty pack is

The space between the battery and the servo is big

Receiver had to be placed next to the new ORCA VX ESC to balance the car properly. The VX is smaller and ligter (78g) than most turbo ESC on the market.

Look how narrow is the battery



Front shock Yokomo Whites from Y2000 for the MR-4TC. Shock oil 50WT, 2 hole pistons .Shock length 64.5mm. Outer most hole on shock tower.Antiroll bar medium. Notice the transponder at the front, its mounted on a 3 5g block of weights.



Rear , springs Tamiya M chassis Yellow, Oil 30WT, Piston 2 holes. Upper mount in middle hole, mounted on inner hole on arm. Antiroll bar medium.

The space between the top of the shorty pack and the top deck.

NEW ESC and shorty packs !

I received three 4000mah shorty packs from gn-fusion, a battery maker from china, for a cheap price.
I also recently bought the new ORCA VX ESC becuase my hobbywing has died for 6 months now.
Its nice to get back into boosted, however i have not tested the car or the ESC yet.
The ORCA VX ESC is very light and only 78g with wires and fan ! Thats a whopping 31g lighter than my old V2.1 ESC. When i did the wheel weights balancing, i found that the left side was too light, so i had to move the reciver to the left, right next to the ESC. Its actually possible now becuase the shorty packs free up a LOT of space on the chassis, and also the small VX ESC too. Now with everything in place (including PT), i had to add 10g to left side of the chassis on the rear next to the motor to balance out the car. The wheel weights are now as follows:
Rear wheels : 333g each
front wheels : 313g each.
That means L-R balance is  50-50, cross weight 50-50 and rear front 51.5 - 48.5. the rears are 41g heavier than the front. Total weight with body is 1396g, which is underweight. By adding 20g at the bumper, and placing the PT on top of the weights, the total weight is 1413g, and the F-R balance is 331+331=662g, front weight 326+325 = 651g. a difference of only 11g rear. I decide to add only 15g to the bumper and the total weight is now 1408g. Just nice for competition. I figured the little weight bias to the rear isnt detrimental to the car's handling. The car should eat up wayy less tyres and also accelerate faster becuase its lost 100g of weight. Becuase of that i surmise that springs must be softer to compensate for the lighter weight. i now shift the yokomo white springs to the front and use tamiya m chassis yellow springs at the rear. Only track testing will tell if this springs are too soft or not.

Met Up with a fellow Kawada Alcyon fan from Australia

Finally mety up with Mr Wang who has lived in australia for many years now. I have been in contact with him since 2006.
Met up with him at Sunway Giza on the 11th Apr - 2012 at 10.30 in the morning.

Need Belts Alcyon Fans?

So you stripped your belts for your Kawada Alcyon. Don't fret. There are current car belts that will fit.

1. Front belt - S3M 516, which means 3mm pitch 172 tooth. You can use the Yokomo BD-5 front belt which is also 516mm long. Make sure you buy the low friction version. Do not use the TRF416 front belt. Its marked 516 also, but seems like a tooth longer. The HPI RS4 Pro2 front belt is a direct fit also, if you can find one.

2. Rear belt S3M - 171 which means 3mm pitch 57 tooth. Use Sakura Zero rear belt, also 171mm. Part number SAK-12, which is low friction.