However becuase th pulley is 37T opposed to original 36T, the belts are now too tight. So for the rear i had to add a tooth longer. Rear belt is now S3M 174 and front belt S3M 519.
With this mod, i still use the 16T top pulleys, and the ratio is now 37/16 = 2.3125 as opposed to the original 36/16=2.25. Also, becuase the TRF417 gear diffs have very long outdrives, you have to change the dog bones from 46mm to 44mm, and use the blades that are given with the gear diff.
In the future i plan to change the top pulley to 17T. As for now the belts are a little loose but with the tensioner adusted all the slack in the belt has been taken up-mostly. Cant wait to test the car tommorow. I have placed #200,000 oil in the front diff and stuck with #900 in the rear. I feel that the #200,000 is too hard for the Kawada it feels almost like a spool. With the SV-10s good balance a #100,000 should be enough. Latest Update, i found that the #200000 oil sags rather soon, so the diff will feel softer after a while. i Changed to #300000, and the performance is much moire long lasting and consistent.
|The TRF417 Gear diff at the rear. Cool Eh..white diffs 1|
|The front diff inside the bulkhead|
|New Front belt, added one tooth to the original, now its S3M 519 173T.|
|New Rear Belt added 1 tooth, is now S3M 174 58T, belt must be tensioned.|
|Rear View of the Diff, notice the new outdrive and blades, coupled to 44mm dog bones.|
True TRF parts mated to the SV-10 II.
It handled like a dream and seems the #200,000 oil for the front diff was spot on. The first run i had some problems with the car feeling sluggish, i found out that the oil from the rear diff leaked out in between the diff housing, spraying #900 oil on the rear belts and all around the rear diff area. So i removed the diff and cleaned all the belts and the contaminated areas. I then refilled the diff with less oil and tighthened it up really tight. After that the car ran great without sluggishness. My SV-10 actually had more steering than before, and seem to go into corners a bit better. It also changed direction quicker but also more consistently and with a lot of traction, even with my sorex 40R's nearing tear point at the front ! Looks like the gear diff was a good choice. I will be sticking with them. Acceleration was also quick off the mark. Mid corner steering was especially good.
I gave my pal Ong to try out my car and he was amazed how locked on it felt, it was precise. He then decided he wasnt gonna use one ways at the front anymore and go for a ball diff and is now also buying a gear diff for his HB Cyclone.
Here is a tip to prevent leaking on your rear gear diff. Put a little amount of clear silicon sealant on the area where the o ring will sit on, press the o ring in. Wipe off excess silicone, and ensure there are none in the area where the o ring touches the outdrive. Let it cure for 24 hours, then build your diff. Put green slime on the area where the outdrive contacts the o ring. Dont push the outdrive in too hard or it may disclodge the o ring, if you have to use a small end of a box wrench to press against the o ring then push the outdrive in. When you spin the outdrive, the o ring should not turn. Then only will your diff be leakproof, even with #900 oil.
I wanted to stick the new TRF stickers i got from the gear diffs so i bought a new body cause my old one had a cracked wing and crack front wheel arch.
|Look its a TRF sticker at the side ,its from the gear diff label which i cut off.|
|Close up of the TRF sticker at the front, its a 414 M2 !|
|What the competition will always see..|